20 Easy-to-Forget Things When Building a Home

Especially if you’re a first-timer (see related post titled “Home Building Advice for First Timers“), but also if you’re a veteran, you’re going to have some “why didn’t I think of that” moments after it’s too late.  Over the years I’ve kept a list of small and easy, but somewhat important, things to remember when building a home.  Below is a list of 20 of my favorites, plus a few optional things to consider.

This list was created with new home construction in mind. But sometimes, “new construction” really means a spec home that was 50-80% completed and then paused so that the eventual buyer can make some final decisions and selections. The closer the house is to full completion, the harder it will be to incorporate some of the ideas.

Other project categories that might be relevant to this article are expansions and significant home remodels. Regardless, as a checklist, it’s easy to figure out which might apply to your situation.

1. Securing the Sub-Floor
   

   To avoid future floor creeks, insist that the builder use screws (or special nails) and Liquid Nail adhesive to secure the second story sub-floor and the stairs. This is fairly standard now in new construction.

   Using regular nails allows sub-floor movement over time, which leads to floor creaks when people walk on it. This is an item you can easily inspect after the upstairs flooring is laid and the stairs are constructed. If you see that a nail gun was used, talk to the building supervisor. The framers might have used screw shank or rail shank nails, which give a much better hold than regular straight nails. I have no issues with those, especially if accompanied with Liquid Nail to glue the sub-floor to the joists.

   If you have a remodel project that causes your sub-floor to be exposed, you could add the screws yourself. This is for a second floor, in which the floorboards attach to joists underneath. You can find the joists by looking for existing lines of nails. Put a screw in between each nail. If the surface area is way too much work for your appetite, then just do the high traffic areas.

   Don’t forget the stairs. Look for an existing line of 2-3 nails on the step and put 1-2 screws in line with those. You can also put 1-2 screws towards the front of the step, where the underlying support board is.

2. Extra Materials
   

   Ask for a leftover set of each type of tile, hardwood floor, carpet, grout, wallpaper, brick, paint and trim for future repairs and remodeling. After getting each, catalog the exact manufacturer and description (style, color, etc) of each in a document in case you need more than the leftover amount or can no longer read the label. If it’s not obviously marked, talk to the builder before the house is finished.

3. Paint Colors
   

   Similar to requesting extra materials and cataloging information about each, do the same with the various paint colors used throughout the house. It will only be a matter of time before you have some wall damage or do some minor remodel that requires some paint touch-up. I know Lowe’s and Home Depot can match the color using a small sample, but it’s not always a perfect match.

   Capture the brand, paint type (ie – satin, gloss, high-gloss, etc) and color. If you can get eyes on the paint cans, take a photo of the front label (brand, type) and the top (often there’s a sticker with the color mix info). Even if the color has a fancy name, make sure to get the actual codes to mix the color from scratch.  That’s because the fancy names don’t last forever. The codes will either be a hexadecimal number, like #DAF1D0, or a RGB color, like R218 G241 B208. Using that information, Lowe’s or Home Depot can custom mix your color.

4. Lights, Switches and Power Outlets
   

   Check the location of lights & switches. You might find some places like the pantry or other places where the planned placement of the light switch is totally inconvenient or a power outlet that will sit outside of an end table near a bed versus hidden behind it.

   This about the style of outlets and switches.  One called “decora” or “decorator” are different than the traditional style.  It’s really just personal preference.  But if you don’t specify, you will get whatever the builder normally uses.

   Think about locations where you might benefit from power outlets that also have USB ports.  It allows direct plug-in for phone and tablet chargers, without needing the extra 2-prong or 3-prong adapter.  Bedside, couch-side  and kitchen countertops are common locations for this option.

   Also regarding power outlets, take note of their planned location outside the house. Specific examples include the following:

   • In the front part of the garage, near the driveway. This is helpful if you are installing an irrigation system and want the master controller in the front part of the garage. This is also ideal for vacuuming the cars while parked in the driveway or doing construction projects in the driveway.
   • If you have (or might have) a second refrigerator or freezer that you put in the garage, think about where it might be placed and add a power outlet.
   • Think about where your flowerbeds and trees will be planted. You might also want some landscape lighting. If you decide to go with low-voltage landscaping, then at least run conduit with wires from some power circuit to various places in the yard. If you go with regular 110V landscaping, then have the builder stub up a power box in strategic places from which you can run the landscape wiring.
   • Don’t forget about holidays like Halloween and Christmas. If you plan to put a powered mummy rising from the grave during Halloween or want to wrap all of your front trees with lights, you’ll really benefit from a stubbed-up power outlet nearby. Similarly, if you’re interested in putting Christmas lights along your roofline, it might make sense to put a couple of external power outlet there too. If possible, put all front “holiday” power outlets on a light switch for easy on/off or timer installation.  And you might want the landscape lighting to be on a different switch.  So think about all of this.
   • What about power outlets low on the bathroom walls near the toilet, in your primary clothes closet, or along a hallway, to be used for a night light?
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5. Pool Table Readiness
   

   If you have a game room in the design and ever plan to put a pool table there, consider the following:

   • Room Dimensions – A standard pool cue is 57” long.  So with even a slight backswing, you should have 5’ of space between the pool table and any wall.  A pool table is half as wide as it is long. So an 8’ table is 4’ x 8’.  Such a table needs a 14’ x 18’ room to avoid hitting the walls with the pool cues. If you happen to have a half-wall or banister, pay close attention to the height. Builders might otherwise build it to 36” high, which is probably enough higher than your pool table that on some back swings your pool cue might hit the wall/banister. In this case, see if the building code would allow the wall/banister to only go 32” high.
   • Lighting – Pool tables must be lit with bright lights. The best case is to have a light block exactly above the center of the pool table from which to hang a specialty light fixture with 3-4 lights. And remember that you might not decide to place your pool table in the exact center of the room. Again, the light block should be above the center of the pool table.
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6. Dimmer Switches
   

   Throughout the house, you should decide which lights should be on dimmer switches. Having the builder install these will help ensure the proper type is installed, especially where 3-way switches are involved. It also means that you’ll need LED lights that are dimmable.

7. Lighting Above/Below Kitchen Cabinets
   

   They add a really nice touch to the kitchen, especially if on a dimmer. Even if you have interest in adding this later, consider placing an electrical box somewhere above and/or inside the cabinets for easy installation later.

8. Televisions
   

   Houses these days have TVs everywhere. Think about every place where you might want a TV and make sure there is are recessed power outlets where you want them. And for locations where you want a TV mounted on the wall and a piece of furniture below for a sound system or game system, it would be great to have the audio/video cables hidden behind the wall.

   For this, ask for two recessed outlets. One is mounted higher on the wall, behind the TV and the other lower on the wall, behind the furniture. They are connected via conduit, so that cables can pass between them. There are options for the power plug to actually be recessed 1-2 inches behind the wall, which is helpful for avoiding conflict between the power plug and the TV or back of the furniture.

   Also think of places like a game room or primary bathroom, where you may want to put a wall-mounted TV in some upper corner to have it out of the way. How nice it is to have a power outlet?

9. Shower Head Height
   

   If anyone living in the house is 6 feet tall or taller, consider putting the shower head fitting at 6’10” or so. Once the shower head is added, it will be at about 6’6”.

10. Medicine Cabinets
    

    In the bathrooms, it’s pretty easy to have the builder install recessed medicine cabinets next to each sink (they fit in between the studs). Great space optimization and very functional.

11. Sound System
    

    Think about your sound system, which commonly encompasses both the traditional stereo as well as the entertainment system. Pre-wiring for speakers in the family room, media room, and even the backyard is worthwhile. Basically, the speaker cables will all run from some central point where your stereo system is (or perhaps some wiring closet if you really want to get sophisticated). From there, you mainly need to think about where you want speakers located. Each of your remote speaker “zones” (like the game room or backyard) should have its own volume control knob. This lets you crank up the music in the game room without sending the same volume to your backyard.

12. Gas BBQ Grill
    

    If you have a BBQ grill for the back patio, consider running a gas line there to avoid having to replace the propane tank every time it runs out. This same concept works well if you want an outdoor fire ring for winter use.

13. Irrigation System
    

    If you’re going to install an irrigation system after the house is built, and have grass on both sides of the driveway, make sure to install a large PVC conduit (3” in diameter) under the driveway. Your main water supply will likely be on one side or the other, so the water main for the irrigation system will need to traverse the driveway. Your irrigation installer will hug you if you tell him you’ve already got a large conduit pipe under the driveway.

    Additionally, make sure to get a diagram of how the system was laid out, including indicators for zone control valves and other key system components. You’ll be glad you did in the future when you decide you want to plant some big trees, install a pool or do anything that involves serious digging in your yard. It’s also a good idea to take a video of your yard while it is trenched for the irrigation pipes. Sometimes the crew that installs the system doesn’t exactly follow the plans.

14. Door Swing Direction
    

    Check the way/direction each door opens (incl. the shower door). Sometimes the builder’s plans aren’t logical based on the way the door would typically be used. Sometimes there are two doors on perpendicular walls that interfere with each other if both are opened at the same time. The shower door comment relates to opening the door and being able to grab towels that might be on a hook or rack nearby.

15. A/C Intake Vents
    

    Ask about the size of the air conditioning intake vents.  If it’s possible to have them all be the same size, you’ll be able to stock a single size of air filters. If it’s not possible, at least try to get commonly sold sizes. If you’re not sure what sizes are common, just go to a local home improvement center and see what they have. After all, that’s where you’re going to stock up from time to time anyway.

16. Water Heater Placement
    

    Ask your builder about installing the water heaters in the attic rather than taking up space in garage. But if they are going in the attic, you also have to consider the storage space they will take up and the walking obstruction they may create. And don’t forget to ask for the best water line fittings because a rupture in your upstairs attic will cause much more damage than if your tanks are in the garage. You might also want to investigate options for tankless water heaters. They are more expensive but don’t consume as much energy and provide a continuous and never-ending hot water supply. Just make sure to size it correctly, based on periodic high usage (ie – two simultaneous showers and a running washing machine or dishwasher)

17. Attic Storage
    

    Some builders will not automatically install decking (flooring) in your accessible attic space. In fact, you might have good attic space that doesn’t include access in the plans. Talk to your builder about doors or pull-down stairs to gain access to any attic space that is big enough to utilize. Have them install plywood flooring and a light with an accessible switch. Also, ask if the AC installer can hang any ducts from the roof rafters, rather than lying them all over the attic floor.

18. Shelf Depth
    

    By default, the shelves in your pantry and closets will be 11-12″ deep. Consider making some of them (usually the lower ones) 14-16″ deep to gain extra utility.

19. Closet Design
    

    Unless you tell the builder how you want the closets laid out, they’ll do them however their plan dictates. Do you want upper and lower hanging rods for clothes? If so, how high off the ground for each? I prefer the rods at 42″ and 83″ high from the floor.  Do you want shelves above each rod?  I typically do.  With 8′ ceilings, the upper shelf has about 12″ of clearance to the ceiling.

    Do you want any section without a lower rod and shelf? That’s a great feature for robes and long dresses.

    Do you want a section that just has shelves? If so, identify the wall and decide how far apart you want them spaced vertically. I typically have the first shelf 15″ off the floor for boots, then one or two shelves with 7-8″ in between for regular shoes, then the rest 10-12″ (sometimes alternating between the two) in between for other purposes.

    It’s best to tell the builder how much vertical space you want between the shelves, since that’s your usable space.  When sketching all of this out on a diagram, don’t forget to include the actual height of the shelf (typically 3/4″).  You’ll also want one or two shelves on this wall to match up with the side shelves that have hanging rod.  It’s not required, but usually logical.

    By the way, I do this same thing for the shelves in the pantry (varying heights, based on intended use).

20. Water Supply Lines
    

    It sucks to have a water supply line bust and flood your house, especially if it’s in an upstairs bathroom and both floors get flooded. The material used for the water line itself and the fittings on both ends makes a HUGE difference in resiliency. If the builder doesn’t install steel-braided lines and metal fittings, I immediately replace them. These exist on each sink faucet and each toilet.

    I also strongly prefer 1/4″ water valves because they don’t tend to lock up over time like the traditional round or oblong knobs do. If you have the round/oblong knobs, don’t open it 100% but rather about 75-85% so the internal parts don’t compress against each other and stick over time. And regardless of the type of know you have, set a reminder to rotate each one a little bit each direction every couple of years.

21. Optional Miscellaneous Considerations
    

    • Circuit Breaker Panel Labeling – If your builder doesn’t automatically label each circuit, do it yourself using trial and error.  In fact, even if they do write labels next to each circuit, they’re often not complete or descriptive enough.  Consider creating a table in a Word or Powerpoint doc to write out better labels.  Then tape the print-out to the inside of the panel door.
    • Quiet Exhaust Fans – Some bathroom exhaust fans sound like a small lawnmower when they’re running. For a little extra cost you can get ones that are much quieter, as rated by a metric called “sones”.
    • WiFi Repeater – If you’re home is large, spread out, or 2-story, a single wifi router won’t broadcast a strong signal to the whole house. Consider pre-running a network cable from wherever your main router will be to some other location where you can place a wifi repeater for expanded coverage. I recommend using a network cable that supports that latest standard possible. If you’re not a techie, get some advice on all of this.
    • Blocking – It sucks when the ideal location to mount a toilet paper holder, towel ring, towel bar, or TV mount is in between studs. Install what’s called “blocking” between the studs in these locations. Basically, it means a 2×6 or wider (8″, 10″, etc) that runs between the studs, and is secured to the studs, to give plenty of locations to place the screw in the mounting bracket. It costs nothing, so if you aren’t exactly sure you are going to want to mount the TV, install multiple blocks above/below each other and even between multiple sets of studs. Don’t forget to get vertical measurements from the floor and horizontal measurements from some wall, for later. And remember that the sheetrock will be about 0.5″ thick and the flooring will be about that, or more, after it is installed.
    • Wide Doorways – If wheelchair access to certain rooms is important, configure a 36″ doorway. Maybe you’re building/remodeling your forever home and want to be prepared. Or maybe you have a loved one that likes to visit and uses a wheelchair. If hallway width or other obstructions are a problem, a pocket door is a possible consideration.
    • Soundproofed Walls – You might benefit from sound proofing interior walls that adjoin a media room or living room or the primary bedroom. Your builder might even allow you to do this yourself. If so, batts of mineral wool insulation is somewhat more expensive than traditional fiberglass insulation, but better for soundproofing. If your builder will let you do this yourself, watch a YouTube video to get advice on how to install mineral wool bats.
    • Recessed / Indirect Lighting – For the primary bedroom, I hate the direct light from a ceiling fan light. Recessed lighting (also called cove lighting) of some sort is a great solution, especially if they’re also on a dimmer switch.
    • Surge Protection – There are whole-house surge protectors that aren’t cheap but protect everything in your house in the event of a nearby lightening strike. I don’t know how much they protect from a direct hit (probably not much).
    • Shower Valve Location – If the wall the shower head will be mounted on is an outside wall, placing the shower valve on that same wall means a deep freeze during Winter could expose most of your shower-related plumbing to freezing.  If one of the side walls is shared with a closet or bedroom, that is avoided and any significant repairs in the future can be done from the opposite wall rather than busting up shower tile.

Related Articles for First-Time Homeowners:

• Home Building Advice for First Timers
• Must Have Tools for New Homeowners
• Home Maintenance Checklist

Author: Gordon Daugherty

Gordon Daugherty is a bestselling author, seasoned business executive, startup advisor and investor. He has made more than 500 investments into early-stage companies and has been involved with raising more than $150 million in growth and venture capital. From his 28-year career in high tech, Gordon has both an IPO and a $200-million acquisition exit under his belt. Now, as co-founder and chairman of Capital Factory and as author of the book “Startup Success”, Gordon spends 100 percent of his time educating, advising, and investing in startups. View all posts by Gordon Daugherty